Xavier Mathieu, the art of sublimating Provence at Le Phébus

Nestled in Joucas, between Gordes and Roussillon, in the heart of the Luberon, Le Phébus & Spa goes beyond simple five-star Relais & Châteaux status. Set on the remains of a former XIᵉ century Templar commandery, this 7-hectare estate, acquired in the 1980s by the Mathieu family, has been transformed with refinement: charming rooms and suites, 550 m² private villa with natural swimming pool, exceptional spa, permaculture vegetable garden… every detail embodies discreet, authentic luxury.

At the center of this elegant bastide, Xavier Mathieu deploys a vision of cuisine that is sincere, sensory and rooted in the land. La Table de Xavier Mathieu, awarded a Michelin star, celebrates the treasures of the terroir, blending tradition and creativity. The chef draws inspiration from his roots and his discoveries, creating menus with daring combinations, offered in an enchanting setting, between a luminous glass roof and a terrace overlooking the valley.

The experience is also expressed in more relaxed settings such as Café de la Fontaine, a warm bistro with spontaneous flavors, or La Table du Jardinier, nestled in the heart of the kitchen garden, for an intimate, plant-based interlude. And let’s not forget the Table d’Hôtes, which takes guests on a veritable voyage to the heart of the kitchens.

Thanks to Xavier Mathieu, Le Phébus, more than just a hotel, has become an emblematic address where a sincere and vibrant Provencal art de vivre is expressed. We had the privilege of meeting this passionate, humble man, whose tireless quest for excellence inspires and commands admiration.

When passion meets excellence.

In the kitchens of the Phébus & Spa, Xavier Mathieu sublimates Provencal terroir with a rare concern for excellence. Meet a Michelin-starred chef whose passion illuminates every plate and inspires far beyond the kitchen.

Hello Xavier Mathieu, thank you for welcoming us to your home. Over the years, Le Phébus has established itself as an emblematic address in the Luberon, blending refinement, authenticity and the Provencal art of living. Before we get to the heart of your culinary universe, I’d like you to tell me a little about the history of Le Phébus : who was behind it and how did it come about ?

“…It’s a family adventure. I was 14 when I came here with my parents. My father is from Avignon, so he’s really from around here. My parents came here to get away from the city and with the aim of creating an inn in the countryside.

And so Le Phébus was born. It’s the fruit of almost 40 years’ work. In the beginning, we only had 6 rooms… ”

What led you to choose the name Phébus ? Was it a deliberate reference to mythology and its symbolism ?

“…We chose to set up here, attracted by the unique light that surprised us and which bathes the premises all year round, even in winter.

The view over Roussillon, bathed in the golden light of the setting sun, is simply magical. We were deeply moved by this energy and luminosity, and it was important to us to choose a name that would pay homage to this light. Phébus, the epithet of Apollo in Greek and Roman mythology, means “the brilliant”, “the luminous”, underlining the pure, solar dimension we wanted to express. And then, it has to be said, the name sounded good and had never before been used for a house like ours…”.

Could you share with us your vision of the cuisine you like to offer your guests ?

“… It’s a cuisine that’s simple in appearance, with Provençal accents, where beautiful products take center stage. But behind this simplicity lies a real requirement: every cooking, every seasoning, every ingredient must be mastered with absolute precision, leaving no room for the slightest approximation.

Our whole fennel roasted in hazelnut oil in a salt crust perfectly embodies the exacting standards that drive my cooking. Behind its apparent simplicity lies an absolute mastery of every gesture and every ingredient, necessary to reveal its full aromatic richness…”.

Whole fennel roasted in hazelnut oil in a salt crust__@Crédit Photo Philippe Vaurés-Santamaria

How many talents are mobilized every day to make Le Phébus & Spa an exceptional home ?

“Today, 80 people surround me to bring this house to life. It’s a real family at the service of our guests…”.

Are there any other members of your family involved in the team today ?

“…My grown-up son Anthony, 30 years old, now plays a key role alongside me on the hosting side…”

No doubt he was introduced to this profession very early on by your side, wasn’t he ?

“…Yes, he went to hotel school, and you know, it’s a job where you learn a lot on the job, you learn the basics, but then you want to express yourself, and when you’re in a family of hoteliers, restaurateurs, you quickly get your hands dirty…”

If I’m not mistaken, is passing on one of your core values ?

“…Yes, in fact, I teach at the Avignon hotel school, and it’s an activity that gives me enormous pleasure. I think that at a certain point in life – I’m 56 now – you feel the need to pass on what you’ve learned, because you are what you are today thanks to everything you’ve received.

When I come face to face with these 15 to 18 year olds, whom I consider to be a bit like my children, it’s a fatherly, benevolent look that comes over me almost naturally. I see in them a real passion, and I believe it’s essential to reach out to them, to accompany them, to guide them when they need or want it. Being there for them is precious and important…”.

Having lived in this region for four decades, you’ve no doubt developed special ties with local producers and craftsmen over the years ?

“…Yes, of course, we have a very special relationship with our producers, winemakers and farmers. Around the house, we have all the wonders of the terroir at our fingertips: asparagus, strawberries, cherries, melons, tomatoes, truffles and olives. We’re lucky to be surrounded by passionate producers who give us access to exceptional products.

But it’s true that the ones that have evolved the most in the region over the last 40 years are the wineries. We’re here in the terroir of the Ventoux appellation d’origine contrôlée, and at the time, the wines produced were mainly from cooperatives. There were no real estates or châteaux as there are today in renowned appellations such as Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Côtes du Luberon or Côtes de Provence.

Today, we’re witnessing a real move upmarket for AOC Ventoux, reflecting a desire to reposition itself with some very fine cuvées, often organic or biodynamic. Some of them can now compete with more prestigious neighboring appellations such as Gigondas or Vacqueyras…”.

Is there a product or ingredient in your cooking that you particularly like to sublimate ?

“…It depends essentially on the season. In spring, asparagus, zucchini flowers, which you may have seen on a potato chip, in summer, basil, and of course in autumn, squash and mushrooms. I really work with the seasons. I’m also very fond of olive oil, which I use in all seasons…”.

When you imagine a dish, such as these magnificent pieds paquets that we were lucky enough to discover, where does the inspiration come from? What is the founding idea, and how do you choose to explore it, to sublimate it, until you integrate it into your menu ?

“…Behind every dish is a story. It may be linked to its origins, its terroir, or a more personal dimension, such as an encounter or the discovery of a product. But more often than not, it’s a strong connection to the region that gives rise to inspiration.

This region is part of my DNA. I’m deeply rooted here, and it’s instinctive and easy for me to convey the essence of this terroir…”.

Pieds et Paquets Marseillais_@Crédit Photo Philippe Vaurés-Santamaria

What would you like to pass on, and to whom would you like to offer this legacy ?

“…Everything I can, to the people who want it. It’s important to ensure the continuity of what we’ve built here. We’re just passing through. I don’t understand people who selfishly want to keep their knowledge and never share it. That’s not in my DNA…”

Can you tell us about a project that’s close to your heart and that you’d like to see come to fruition ?

“…I’d like to create a beautiful room with an open kitchen, around the fountain, which will be dedicated to the bistro. It will be open all year round and will also host cooking classes. I also plan to add six more rooms, to bring our total capacity up to 36 rooms…”

When you look back at what you’ve achieved, what are you most proud of ?

“…My greatest pride is that it all worked. Nothing said in advance that it would work. Realizing one’s dreams is an opportunity, and I consider that life has been generous with us. Of course, we’ve worked hard, but a lot of people work hard but don’t always manage to bring their projects to fruition… ”

To conclude our interview, can you tell us how long you’ve been a Michelin-starred chef ?
“…It’s been 25 years. But you know, when I started out, I wasn’t chasing my first star. I didn’t even know what it

Our 5 favorites at Le Phébus :

  • The serene, enchanting setting of this estate
  • Xavier Mathieu’s 5-course menu
  • The sommelier’s carefully-crafted selection of grands crus
  • The Spa Ila and the quality of its treatments
  • Fast, exclusive access via the on-site helipad

More than a destination, Le Phébus is a true immersion in the soul of gourmet Provence, warm and luminous. The five-course menu at La Table de Xavier Mathieu was an experience worthy, in our eyes, of a second Michelin star. An exceptional address, combining hotel refinement, gastronomic excellence, holistic well-being and a deep love of the terroir.

Would you like to discover this unique place in the heart of the Luberon ? Treat yourself to an exceptional break at Le Phébus & Spa.

For more extraordinary restaurants, visit our gastronomy section.

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